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Luang Prabang
Journey to Happiness

Travelling to Asian countries has long been popular because of the possibility of discovering exotic lifestyles. Unfortunately, SARS and the Asian Bird Flu have caused large tourist declines, but these problems are not Asia-wide and tourists need only choose carefully. Luang Prabang in central Laos is still a safe destination.

Seven hundred years ago this legendary town began with a few families in the middle of mountains through which the Mekong and Khan Rivers flow. It is hard to believe that Nakhorn Luang Prabang, the town's official name, would develop into an amazing destination that flourishes by art and culture.

There are 65 temples in a city area with a total population of 63,000. Religion is one of the most important things for Laotians. And UNESCO has named the town a World Heritage site. After visiting a few temples you will feel that they don't differ much, but one temple that shouldn't be missed is Wat Xieng Thong. Built in 1559 by King Setthathirat, the temple remained under royal patronage until 1975. It has all the extraordinary design features that indicate a royal family. Its "Sim," a Lanna-style ordination hall, is its most magnificent treasure.

Feeding monks and novices in the early morning can be your great Buddhist experience. This custom is not reserved to Buddhists, so no matter what if any religion you adhere to, feel free to follow this tradition. Monks and novices normally start walking at 5:30 a.m. and should end about two hours later.

After that there is a morning local market that will show you what the Lao eat for breakfast and what products they buy for daily use. I took the chance of having sticky rice with grilled pork, which suited me fine all day, for 30 baht. Or if you want to go back to bed after your early morning walk this is a great choice since Luang Prabang offers many activities to wear you out day after day.

Climbing to Phu Si to see Luang Prabang from the bird's-eye view is a killer with the cost of entrance fee at 40 baht. My tricky advice for a budget tourist is you can get there for free if you wake up before the ticket staff. Somebody also told me to use the east path, which has no ticket station, but I couldn't find it. Phu Si temples are on the upper slopes of a 100-meter-high hill. Wat Pa Huak, located on the lower northern slope near the Royal Palace Museum, has a spectacular wood carving and mosaic displaying the Buddha riding the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology.

When the weather is very hot and humid, just sit down or take in the Tad Kong See waterfall. This is a "must" site if you are a hiking fan. It's a short walk from town through green trees. Climbing to the top can take about an hour, not to mention the hour bus ride.

The Evening Market is a fun place to check out traditional handiwork. The products do not differ from seller to seller but be sure to bargain. Before purchasing anything, you might like to check out prices at other nearby shops. Some sellers even cut their prices in front of other sellers to get their goods sold.

After supporting local business, sipping a cold beer or having a fruit-shake as the sun sets on the Mekong River is a great romantic choice. Food selections are basic but you can find some tasty fare at local restaurants. The food differs little from Thai food but is plainer and oilier. There are good international food restaurants, thanks to the French who left their cooking tradition to Laos. Another colonial heritage from the French is architecture. Great-looking places turn out to be hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, coffee shops, or even internet cafes.

Accommodations are plentiful and in a range of prices. Cheap and clean guesthouses abound. Descending from your boat, if you arrive by river from Chiang Mai, you'll be assaulted by guesthouse owners. Prices range from 150 to 1000 baht or more. Bargaining is necessary and you can shop around since the town is not large and an hour of exploring will lead you to views of rivers, temples, old French mansions, and trees. Checking the condition of the room first is a wise move.

Nightlife in Luang Prabang is downright dull compared to Silom Road and vicinity. Everything stops at 11 p.m.! But the peaceful environment, the sound of crickets and cicadas, the forests and abundant stars, and a bright moon can provide a romantic touch. The downside of the town's nightlife is that mosquito repellent is a must!

The free offering and selling of "illegal substances" is common. If you want it, they will come to find you. We were followed aggressively by local guys trying to offload "heaven on earth." These activities are illegal, of course, and wisdom and not getting to know local officialdom is the best policy.

Luang Prabang, a World Heritage site, has everything to interest the curious traveler. Its culture and ways of living are still original. Hurry to visit it before it gets even more discovered and globalization turns it into a Lao version of Chiang Mai's Thapae Road.

(Text & images © Chatwut Wangwon 2004)