At that time, I thought those tattoos of my grandpa were very scary.
Grandpa passed away when I was six years old, and I remembered that adults at his funeral said his body wouldn’t burn because of his holy tattoos, and resisted the flames until they put my grandma’s tube skirt with him and then he burned just fine. My uncle said this may have happened because my grandpa was really worried about grandma. But my grandma is a strong woman. Right now she’s 104 years old and still lives with us happily.
It’s quite an intriguingly spiritual story but actually the main things I remember about my grandpa is what love he gave me and with what care he looked after me when I was young.
However, the fact remains, loving him as I did, his tattoos scared me, especially a particularly big traditional Thai tattoo which included some giants or animals like tigers or snakes – which scare most children, and some adults too.
Having grown up though, my feelings about tattoos have changed, partly because I have friends both male and female who love tattoos and always like to show me their new ones.
Of course, it isn’t just us Thais who go for tattoos. People all over the world have their own traditions involving them. In Thailand, the custom of tattooing has been with us since ancient times, according to the texts I’ve read about our past. And what you learn from the old records is that we indulged in tattooing for two basic reasons - for sirimongkol, that’s to say for good luck or fortune and - less agreeably - to designate slaves and prisoners.
As to the first category, it still holds good, though until recently it was going into decline under the influences of modern times. Nevertheless, that old tradition still survives among people who have strong beliefs about the supernatural, and think the designs they put on their bodies provide strength and help them towards a longer life.
But of course, nowadays we’re seeing tattoos that are just decorative, and these reflect our multicultural world, where people and their fashions know no borders. So thanks, foreign visitors, you are bringing us all kinds of interesting novelties in this line.
In this respect my Shan (Tai Yai) friends from across the western and northern borders have given me lots of new (to me) ideas. They tell me that just as in the past with us, right now most Shan adults have tattoos. They said that most of these tattoos are decorative, but some are highly practical.
Wonderfully retentive these ancient practices, you’ll find yourself saying, if like me you go out in the woods on the appropriate day this year.
“Some of us like to have our names on our arms or hands. That way, even if we die alone in the forest, someone will be able to identify us.”
Ohhh!! At first, that just sounded fanciful, but life these days in Burma - where most Shans are to be found - is violent and unpredictable, and this is just another way of showing it. Still, those Shan friends of mine who were born and have grown up in Thailand don’t have tattoos like this.
Actually, tattooing in the traditional Thai style, called sakyan, is done by master tattooists who use special mantra to make their designs effective. This kind of tattoo is expected to be protective or confer blessings on the one who has them. Now, though, there are tattoo shops all over town where tattooing is done professionally and neatly, with bespoke designs that customers chose themselves.
To come back - as we should - to the traditional tattooing, sakyan has two purposes, one for mettamahaniyom, a blessing that brings good luck and fortune, which frequently features a lotus or other good luck images. The other is for kongkraphan, imparting - wow! - invulnerability, which is likely to employ stronger images, like tigers, nak (serpents), singha (lions) or power-charged Pali lettering - Pali of course being the sacred language and script.
After imparting the blessing, the ajarn-tattooist instructs the tattooee how to comport him or herself, pointing out that if they do wrong things, the mantra will become ineffective - or might even turn malign.
But beyond the traditional approach, there’s also the modern style, mainly decorative, making you a more eye-catching and intriguing you. And if this is what you’re after, in Chiang Mai there are plenty of excellent tattooists ready to provide their services at reasonable prices.
For example, Khun Art, the owner of Dejavu Tattoo shop on Sirimankalajan Road, told me that recently 80% of his customers have been foreigners from all over the world, and he claims that depending on their nationality, they tend to follow certain similar images and patterns. Japanese customers for example love to have Japanese style tattoos such as carp, while Westerners go for ‘old school’ Western styles. On the other hand, Westerners who’ve come here to go through Thai boxing schools are almost certain to choose traditional Thai style.
“Our major customers are from Thai boxing gyms, both in
Chiang Mai and other provinces. When foreigners who come to Thailand to learn Thai boxing see that their trainers or friends have traditional Thai style tattoos on their bodies, they want to follow suit,” he told me.
Apart from that, some other martial arts types such as Ultimate Fighters, when they have tournaments here in Thailand they take their chance to visit his shop to get some new tattoos.
“Some foreigners believe just like us Thai that these designs can help them and increase their strength.” Then again, there are those customers who get a tattoo simply as souvenir of their stay in Thailand.
But nowadays, many more women want to have tattoos. In the past it seems like it was only for men, but now a lot of Thai women come to his shop to have a small image or design tattooed, and later go to an ajarn, a tattoo master, to have it blessed.
“They come here because our images and designs are more beautiful than those of temple or tattoo (spirit) masters,” he says.
Taking things further, I talked to a friend of mine called Phoo, who fell in love with tattooing for several years, and as a result has what seems like more than half her body covered with tattoos.
“I fell in love with tattoos when I was in school but could not do anything until I had graduated. Then when I was around 20 I got my first one, and loved it so much I got another two…till here I am now, with twenty.”
I took a close look of course, and found that most of her tattoos are of dragons and snakes, really neatly and beautifully executed.
“The first one on my back was painful. I couldn’t sleep well afterwards for a week. But later it was better. And I hardly felt the last one.” She told me it’s good that she has her own independent line of work, as a clothes-shop owner, so it does not affect her job. In addition, her husband also loves tattoos, so they don’t have any problem with it.
Art told me the same thing, that recently, Thai society has become more tolerant of tattoo lovers. The attitude of people has changed, a majority no longer associating tattoos with keekuk - prisoners.
“Right now, we don’t have a problem walking around with tattoos, but in the past people could be very negative about it - and also about the people who had them. There was another negative association - with nakleng: hoodlums, people like that. If you see old Thai movies, you’ll notice the badies always have tattoos that make them look scarier.”
“In some countries, people with tattoos still have a problem when applying for a job, because it could discredit them, so many of my customers want their tattoos where they can’t be seen, covered with clothes, and on places like the back or upper legs.”
However, when I asked Art about his suggestions to customers who wanted tattoos, his answer was delicately nuanced. He tells them to think carefully first, because a tattoo is semi-permanent and once on the body isn’t easily got off. But then if they still want to go ahead, he tells them to choose a reliable shop that will give them something they really want and can be proud of.
Right now, tattoo shop owners need to adapt themselves, keeping up to date, because there are new techniques and materials coming along every day they need to use in their profession.
Tattoo is an art practiced on the human body, and sometimes in defiance of religious belief, but also involving personal belief in the right to express one’s individuality in the most direct way possible – “in your face!” indeed.
Still, if you’re really hot to get a tattoo, I suggest you take Art’s advice seriously.
“Think first! Tattoos are easy to get, but hard to erase.”
Like some of our life memories, wouldn’t you say?
Rector Inta Intaweero
Abbot at Wat Papao, age 61
His first tattoo was at the age of eight, while living in Baan Pai Luang, Wiang Haeng district. For Tai Yai society, the belief is that all men must have a tattoo. Intaweero received his from a number of tattoo masters and after becoming a monk, in turn tattooed many others. Tattoo masters must strictly follow a few rules. For example, you must follow the first five basic rules of Buddhism, and you may not eat someone else’s leftover food. Today, fewer tattoo masters can be found and many tattoo textbooks are now in the hands of foreigners. The abbot’s favorite tattoo is of a cat, located at the back of his leg as protection from an animal attack.
Tevasit Mitroongroengkit
Student, age 21
He received his first tattoo at the age of fifteen, an image of a small sun on his leg. As his love for these decorative displays of body art grew, so did the number of tattoos on his own body. For the young student, these tattoos are cool and he plans to continue having them placed all over his body. Mostly, the designs are a mix between Western and Eastern styles.
Boonlan Dang
Tricyclist, age 58.
With twelve years in the monkhood, Boonlan spent many years on pilgrimage to mountainous villages in the Northeast. He received his first tattoo five years ago and believed it could keep away bad spirits. The first day after getting the tattoo he came down with a fever that lasted three full days. His favorite tattoo is called ‘Vessuwan’ (a yak - giant-deity)and is located at the back of his right upper arm.
Sansapon Thongdee
Tong Restaurant Owner, age 31
The restaurant professional’s tattoo was taken from the Japanese legend Kintaro, the story of a strong boy depicted fighting with a giant fish. Kintaro symbolizes a boy’s power. The tattoos are placed on his left arm and continue over his entire back. Getting a tattoo doesn’t happen in a day. For Zee, the most painful part was creating the outline, and the one on his back is not yet one hundred percent finished. The design elements were borrowed, and Zee then rearranged the composition himself.
Chanidapha Khunanuwat
Choreographer and dance teacher at KC Dance School, age 27
For Chanidapha, a tattoo is not for fashion, though she thought they were very cool when she was young. As she grew up, she began to believe in tattoos as spiritual comfort. The three types of traditional tattoos on her back are Rahu (for good luck in work, love and financial aspects), Yant Gao Yord (Nine Syllable Mantra or 9 Spires Yant, believed to ward off enemies) and Metta Mahaniyom for great popularity.
Lyndell Montgomery
Touring Bass Player and Violinist, age 36
“Mostly my tattoos are a way of writing myself down so I can be found or followed; a way to remind myself of where I’ve been and where I want to go. A couple of them are tribute tattoos to feel like I am carrying a small piece of loved ones around with me at all times.”
Paige Jacoby
Jewelry Maker and Cheese Farmer, age 34
“I let my artists do whatever they liked. I didn’t come in with anything specific in mind. I chose them because I admired their work. It’s a lifetime commitment I made to that person.”
Text : Mim Saisin
Images : Dejavu Tattoo & S.P.
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