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Teak, King of Timbers See it While it Lasts Text & Images: Sjon Hauser
Teak-wood tusker
In Asia the teak tree (Tectona grandis) has
traditionally been used for building houses, palaces and
Chinese junks. Its timber was highly valued because
of its durability and resistance to termites. The trade
in this hardwood, however, soared during the eighties and nineties of the 19th century when
European stocks of oak were depleted and teak became
its substitute, especially for the decks and interiors
of ships. In 1882 a Danish sea captain named Hans
Niels Andersen returned to Bangkok with the news
that his cargo of teak had been sold in Liverpool for
a profit of a hundred percent. Thereafter 'the
trade was transformed into a wild scramble which
rivalled a gold rush'..
Despite the depletion of teak stocks that has
followed, Thailand still has some stands of the hardwood, and one
or two giant specimens can still be found in the North, as
we shall see here.
But a bit of history first.
Most of the foreign teak-wallahs who came to work
in Burma and northern Thailand were employed by British
companies. The local population, the
khonmuang, feared ghosts and evil spirits to such a degree that they refused to work
in the remote forests. Thus the teak-wallahs had to hire
Shan and Burman labourers for the extraction of the prized
trees. When a problem arose in 1886 between the Bombay
Burmah Trading Corporation and King Theebaw of Burma, the
Britons had an excuse to annex Burma. Following the
aggression towards his neighbour, King Chulalongkorn of Siam
allegedly did not sleep for one week, worrying that a
similar fate might await the north of Siam.
Mature stand
However, the actual work of the teak-wallah used
to be far from Chiang Mai and Lampang. With a horse, a
number of elephants and their mahouts, along with a crew
of other labourers as his only companions, he used to
labour for many months in succession in the midst of dense
forests. Teak trees were selected for 'girdling' so that they
died and the wood dried up to become lighter, as green teak is
too heavy to float. After one or a few years, the dead
trees were felled, elephants dragged the trimmed logs to a
nearby creek and floated downstream into larger tributaries,
finally arriving at one of the main rivers, such as the Yom, Nan
or Ping. Then the logs were made up into rafts and
continued the trip to Bangkok, where the logs were eventually sold
and shipped out.
Unfortunately, conservation and replanting the
harvested areas was ignored. Nowadays, virgin teak forest
is left only in the Mae Yom National Park in Phrae
province. However, this natural heritage will be lost if/when the
Kaeng Sua Ten dam is constructed as has been planned since
the late 1980s.
Although teakwood furniture, carvings, and other
products are still common, the vast majority are now
produced from other timbers (for instance, most woodcarvings
at Chiang Mai's Night Bazaar are made of the wood of
the raintree, Samanea saman). However, the ghost of
teak's former glory is still present all over the northern
provinces and with the 'teak story' as guide, a trip in the north
should not be boring.
Leaving Chiang Mai in the direction of Lampang,
you will pass the Training Centre for Elephants run by the
Forest Industry Organization, which is worth visiting, although
at present few elephants are employed in forestry.
Lampang, 100 kilometres southeast of Chiang Mai, has long been
a major centre of the teak trade. The importance of
Burmans and Shans for the trade is still reflected by a number
of 'Burmese-style' temples, as for example Wat Si Chum,
which was built during the first decade of the 20th century
by craftsmen from Mandalay.
Future giants?
Driving from Lampang to Ngao, one will pass by
the former training centre for elephants and the Teak
Improvement Centre at Mae Huat Teak Plantation. From Ngao a
dirt road (Highway 1154) leads in a southerly direction to
the entry of the Mae Yom National Park near the Kaeng Sua
Ten rapids. However, to appreciate the last virgin 'golden'
teak forest in the national park one had better continue
ten kilometres and turn left. Highway 1120 to Chiang Muan
district (Phayao province) runs more or less parallel to the
Yom river. After about 25 kilometres, the rustic village of Ban
Sa Iap (Ban Don Chai) is the stepping stone to the
impressive teak trees on the other side of the Yom.
Ban Sa Iap, as well as Mae Ten, five kilometres to
the north, will be inundated if the controversial dam is
finally constructed. The dam has been a hot issue for several
years. Visiting government officials as well as
environmentalists have been a common sight in the villages. The
farang (Western) sympathiser is often vehement about
environmental activities, which gives pause for thought: in the past the Westerners demolished much of the teak forests, yet
now they preach the necessity of its conservation with the
zeal of missionaries.
To reach the next destination, Phrae, I have to
return southwards. Between the district towns of Song and
Rong Kwang, tens of - maybe even over a hundred - stalls
selling figures carved from teakwood are lined along the road,
with mangkon (dragons) being the most popular carvings on
sale. Many of the blocks used by the woodcarvers are
obtained illegally. To observe the lawbreakers in a safe way, you
only need to jump on the late afternoon train from Den Chai
to Chiang Mai. Along the first 20 kilometres of the track,
following the Yom river, cyclists smuggling their loads of teak
blocks or planks out of the forest are a common sight.
In Uttaradit province, the world's biggest teak tree towers up into the sky amidst a forest of its seedlings.
'Towers' is maybe an exaggeration because during a storm in 1977
its crown was torn off, reducing its height from 47 to 37
metres. But the trunk, with a circumference of ten metres, is
truly impressive. It used to be adorned with colourful sashes
to please its tutelary spirit, but recently conservationists
have 'protected' the trunk with a wooden fence, while the
veneration of the spirit is directed to a spirit house outside
the elevated walkway around the fence.
“ The ghost of teak’s former glory is still present...”
Although the tree is a dwarf compared to
North-America's redwoods, it's a living monument about 1,530
years old. A visit to the tree is seldom made by foreigners, and on
a 'busy' day, a few dozen local sightseers may come to
admire this 'Mother of Teak'.
Another day, just 10 kilometres north of Si
Satchanalai, I see a sign beside the road: BIGGEST TEAK TREE
720 METRES. Intriguing, another 'biggest'! I follow a winding
path uphill and between thickets of bamboo to find the lonely
and little known giant. Although it is taller and less damaged
than the one in Uttaradit, the circumference of the trunk
indicates that she is not that old. As well as the usual offerings
of areca nuts, liquor, stick rice, sweets (covered with
ants), and plastic garlands, a little mirror, a comb and lipstick
have been offered by locals at the small spirit house with a
corrugated iron roof which stands beside the tree.
To satisfy her vanity I take a number of
pictures of the grand old lady. It is a miracle that she has
survived the genocide.
Text © 2008 Sjon Hauser
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