Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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A Tripartite Trip to
Paradise in southern Laos
Just a Hop and Skip Away from Us Here in Chiang Mai

Text : Richard Bowman
Images : Anne

Recently I finally got to explore southern Laos, something I’ve wanted to do for years. And I wasn’t disappointed. Within a 200 km radius we got to kick back on tropical islands, fly across spectacular waterfalls in the jungle, and take in a sunrise amidst the misty ruins of ancient Wat Phu.

The 4000 Islands

As time was limited we flew into Pakse from Vientiane, though I’m told it’s well worth visiting the provinces between Vientiane and Pakse if time permits. Our first destination was Si Phan Don, otherwise known as the 4000 islands. The actual number of islands varies depending on how high the river is, but there certainly are thousands of islands if you include those the size of a beach towel.

There are three islands with tourist accommodations. Don Khong is the largest, but most travellers head to Don Det or Don Khon a little further south. The islands are covered by rice paddies and vegetable gardens, with restaurants, guesthouses and bungalows scattered along the shoreline. The two islands are connected by an old railway bridge (a relic from the French Colonial Era) and with a rented bicycle one can cross both islands in a couple of hours. In fact, exploring the islands by bicycle is a must, and a great way to take in the chilled out atmosphere and see the sights.

Even more popular than cycling, we discovered, is doing nothing. Si Phan Don is one of those places where you go to a restaurant for breakfast and stay for sundowners. We arrived on Don Kohn at lunch time and checked into Pan’s Guesthouse. After dropping our bags we eagerly set off to explore the island. Unfortunately we only made about 50 yards before we found an inviting looking riverside restaurant – where we proceeded to spend the rest of the afternoon and evening. Sunset is a surprisingly busy time on the islands. Buffalo are brought down to the river to drink, while fishermen balancing on tiny canoes hunt for fish with throw nets, and women exchange gossip while children splash in the shallows. And this all takes place as the sun sets over the mirror calm Mekong. This of course must be taken in with an ice cold Beer Lao.

The next day we did manage to see some of the islands. We hired bikes and cycled north across the bridge and around Don Det. The small paths that criss-cross the islands pass through numerous villages where the local people grow nearly all the food consumed on the islands. Electricity and the internet have only recently arrived on the islands and so far made very little impact. Life is simple and the pace is slow, even by Lao standards.

Don Det is the busier of the two islands, though hardly bustling. There is a cluster of budget accommodation, with sunset views, close to the pier on the north western tip of the island. More secluded bungalows are scattered along the Eastern shore, where there are also some small beaches. In the middle of nowhere we stumbled upon the Organic Veggie Patch restaurant, which serves delicious meals and bread baked in a clay oven. It took only a few hours to explore the island and after lunch we headed back to Don Khon. The rest of the afternoon was spent in a hammock watching the world go by very slowly.

On our third day on the island we cycled down to a large beach on the west of the island. We got lost trying to find a famous waterfall. After giving up on that failed mission we headed further south. From the southern tip of the island one can sometimes see Irrawaddy dolphins in the early mornings and evenings. We didn’t see any dolphins but did find a friendly restaurant with hammocks strung around a small garden, perfect for an afternoon siesta.

Sadly the following day we had to drag ourselves off the islands and head to our next destination, Champassak. On the way we took a detour down to the Cambodian border to see Khon Phapheng falls. Also known as the “Niagara falls of Asia,” this is where the entire Mekong river narrows into a ravine before falling 15 meters. As a waterfall, it’s not very high, but an impressive amount of water goes over it nevertheless.

To reach Champassak we had to cross the river on a very rickety-looking ferry. This rambling old colonial town was once the capital of the province, but now consists of a street lined by charming old buildings. The main attraction is the ruins of the ancient temple of Wat Phu, which predates Ankor Wat. We took a tuk tuk to Wat Phu before sunrise and discovered we had the ruins to ourselves. It was a steep climb to the highest of three terraces, but well worth it. As it got light the crumbling structures emerged from the mist, and it really felt as if we had found a lost city.

Adventures on the Bolaven Plateau

The last leg of our trip was an eco-adventure on the Bolaven Plateau. Tree Top Laos have set up a zip-line adventure that combines breath-taking scenery and a unique stay in the forest with the excitement of zip-line tours.

Our first day started at Green Discovery HQ in Pakse at 8am, from which it was an hour long drive to our starting point. The Bolaven Plateau is a claw-shaped plateau rising to 1,350 metres above sea level. The soil is fertile and the area is famous for coffee. After being kitted out with harnesses and helmets, we set off on the first leg of the journey, walking through the coffee plantations for about half an hour. As we entered the Dong Hua Sao National Park, the coffee trees gave way to dense indigenous forest. After traversing a few small valleys, we arrived at the edge of the plateau where we had lunch beside the first of many waterfalls.

After lunch and a safety talk it was time to hit the zip-lines. The first few zip-lines are short and mostly within the jungle. The zip-lines have been ingeniously positioned, so that you never know what’s coming. On the 3rd or 4th flight you start out in thick forest before suddenly emerging from the jungle to find yourself flying across a massive ravine surrounded by waterfalls on one side of you and endless views on the other. But, before you know it, the guides on the next platform are screaming at you to brake before you crash into the platform.

The zip-lines zigzag back and forth across the spectacular waterfalls, ravines and cliffs that form the escarpment. The longest zip-line on the first day is over 200m long, which takes around 25 seconds to traverse. The adventure also involves some abseiling from one platform to another and a few suspension bridges up in the canopy.

Around mid-afternoon we arrived at the Jungle Hotel at the bottom of the valley, close to the foot of the highest waterfalls. The overnight accommodation at the Jungle Hotel is a testament to living in harmony with nature, without going back to the Stone Age. The entire camp is lit by continuous power from a mini-hydroelectric plant which also provides hot showers and powers a fridge. The hotel rooms are tree houses, accessible only by zip-line and come complete with electric lights, a flush toilet and a lounge.

After a very brief dip in one of the icy pools we spent the afternoon on the large deck watching the sun disappear over the mountains, before moving to the campfire and dinner. The following morning when I woke up to the sound of chirping birds, I realised just where I was – suspended in the midst of the forest canopy halfway up the side of a misty valley. The walls weren’t much higher than the bed, which meant I got to take in the view from the warmth of my sleeping bag - until the aroma of freshly brewed coffee lured me down to the kitchen.

On the second day we were given the option of either walking back up the valley, or climbing straight up the cliffs beside the falls. This isn’t quite as crazy as it sounds - steel steps have been attached to the rocks and you’re roped in all the way up. We chickened out of the climb but the rest of our party did scale the cliffs. And they looked suitably spooked when we met them at the top. From the top of the valley it was an hour’s easy walk back to the van and then back to Pakse, for that much needed foot massage and Beer Lao.

And that was the end of our incredible eight days in the far south of Laos.

Travelers’ Tips:

There are no official money changers or ATMs on the 4000 Islands, so try to take enough cash for your stay.

If you stay at the Jungle Hotel on the Bolaven Plateau between October and February it can get surprisingly cold at night. Make sure you have some warm clothes and a pair of good walking shoes.

After reading through this story, you might feel like entering the wild to be entertained with some jungle activities, then don’t miss a trip with Flight of the Gibbon in Chiang Mai. For further information, please call 089-970 5511 or visit www.treetopasia.com.