Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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Human’s Hidden Weapons:
They’re all over you

Text : Anne
Images : Apirak

And in the Red Corner...

When I was young, I often had to fight over the television with my grandfather. He would switch channels from my favorite soap opera to watch his Muay Thai - the programme that he loved the most. As we lived in a rural area the only place to watch live Muay Thai was in Poy Luang (the local temple fair) but that was very seldom. Otherwise he had to go to Dechanukroh Stadium at Kawila Barracks. So when fights were broadcast from Lumpinee Stadium, Bangkok, I guess I had to indulge him. After watching each fight he became ecstatic and to make up for ruining my afternoon of soap operas he would teach me a little Thai Boxing. He would start me off running up and down temple stairs and we would end up kicking and punching banana trunks. He told me that Muay Thai is not like other kinds of fighting. It is the ultimate in coordination of body and mind; and it is the greatest way to defend yourself because your body is the best weapon. At the time I didn’t really appreciate these sessions. Now, thinking back, I miss him every time I walk alone with my fear in a big city like Bangkok. And that makes me think about Muay Thai.

Dating back from the days that local soldiers had to protect their country without any guns or innovative weapons, they relied on unity of the community, strength of the troops and the art of using the body as self-defense - so called Muay Thai. The origin of the term “Muay Thai” probably comes from the word Muay meaning pull together or bind together, like the traditional hair bun (muay phom), and also from the practice of binding each hand in cloth before a fight. A 20 meter length of unrefined hemp was wrapped around each hand instead of using bare fists – this style of fighting became known as muay kaad chuek. The cloth was also soaked in in flour, tree resin and sometimes they added abrasive materials such as glass or stone, turning the fists into weapons . This traditional boxing was introduced between the Ayuthaya Era and the beginning of the Rattanakosin Era - a time when Siam fought many wars with its neighbors. As a result Muay Thai developed from a combat skill to a military skill essential in the protection of the country. Nowadays, Muay Thai has become both an amateur and a professional sport, as well as a self-defense art and a method of keeping fit. Gloves and proper costumes were introduced only after Muay Thai became known outside of Thailand.

This martial art irecognizes nine weapons (nawa arwut), namely; head, fists, elbows, knees and feet. To enhance body strength and sharpen the mind, rituals and auspicious items play vital roles for Thai fighters. My grandfather used to tell me about the essentials a fighter needed before going into the ring. A good fighter had to make himself to be “nang niew”, literally elastic skin - like a pliable and impenetrable armour. He could also take a bath with special roots (waan) or chew these roots before the fight. Good amulets from famous monks would give more power. Prajiad , a red and white cloth band worn around the upper arms would give him toughness. Tagrut, a combination of bronze or silver sheets rolled up with woven thread - some wore them around the neck, others around the waist. And one can never leave any of these accessories on the floor where people can walk on them. Fighters must be well conditioned at all times and good luck is of course essential in remaining invincible. Incantations from Muay Thai teachers before boxing are another essential ritual.

Apart from having good accessories and strong bodies, respect for their teacher and parents also makes a good fighter. Thus, before traditional Muay Thai starts, there will be wai khru; a ritual dance to pay respect to Muay Thai teachers. As for parents, a fighter will make his mongkon (head band usually worn before fighting) from the thread of the sarong his mother wore when he was born, and some will put some of their father’s hair in their parjiad to strengthen them. In the past few years, more and more Westerners have started coming to Thailand to learn Muay Thai, not just to get stronger bodies but to absorb the authentic traditional Thai boxing. In Chiang Mai, there are a number Muay Thai Stadiums and Boxing Camps for newcomers in which they can experience Muay Thai.