Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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What's Your Poison, Squire?

Text: Terryl
Images: Bobo

In the Thai medical tradition, alcohols have been used rather extensively in the form of the so-called ya dong, literally �steeped medicine'.

Popular ingredients of ya dong are known to consist of herbs or parts of much larger plants which have long been used in traditional medicine to cure various symptoms. Apart from herbs, venomous animals and reptiles, such as centipedes, snakes, scorpions, et al, are cleaned and put into bottles or jars of crystal-clear locally-brewed whiskey while still alive. During the animal's slow but certain demise from suffocation, the venoms or poison are released; and, as the name suggests, the alcohol absorbs the medicinal quality of the steeped herbs, as well as the poison.

The potion is basically an alcoholic beverage. The taste varies, however, depending on the mix of the medicine. The potion with the poisonous mix is stronger than its herbal counterpart; and the drinker will feel numb around the mouth as if an anesthetic has been administered, and the heart beats faster.

The remedial quality of herbal ya dong, which varies with each mix, has been proved scientifically sound by Chiang Mai's Botanical Garden Organization in its research from 1996 - 1997. General impact on the health besides sheer refreshment is improving blood circulation and bile flow, relieving muscular and joint pain, and increasing perspiration, among other effects.

However, of all the recognized benefits of ya dong, certain herbal-based recipes famous (justly or not) for their aphrodisiac property - ie, boosting sexual capacity - have been in existence long before Viagra saw the light of day. Arguably the most well-known is called do mai ru lom (literally translated, `forever erect'). It is not certain whether the name of this drink is derived from the name of the herb in the mix (Elephantopus scaber) or vice versa.

As with all else, there are shortcomings to ya dong. Excessive consumption can be lethal and recommended dosage of any one of them is two 30-cc drinks per day, before breakfast and dinner preferably. Pregnant women and patients with high blood pressure, heart conditions, liver problems, and allergy to alcohol should avoid drinking the ya dong at all cost, if they want to remain alive and kickin'.

These potions, with both herbal and animal mixes, are rather elusive and require a bit of local knowledge to find, although it can be right across the nearest corner from you. As the brews need very personal, handmade preparation, ya dong cannot be mass produced and vended in convenience stores. Plus, according to the law, it's officially illegal to sell alcohol with an unauthorized mix, and therefore the selling of ya dong is not really right in the eyes of Mother Justice. However, while strolling the streets of Chiang Mai, (well backstreets to be more precise), you should look for a local whiskey stall, which most of the times is a wooden bar that has about two or three stools in front of it. If you see jars of yellow liquid atop the bar, you've found what you're looking for.

Although ya dong, along with traditional practice of Thai medicine, is widely recognized by the Institute of Thai Traditional Medicine, under the Ministry of Public Health, some unhygienic blends are known to have potentially lethal effects. Unhealthy practices including putting in formalin as a decay prevention or using poisonous plants without proper preparation can lead to serious or deadly health problems. Best check with street-wise friends which are the safe stalls - and only then should you sample the joys of local ya dong.

Bon app�tit!