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CHIANG DAO -
City of Stars

Chiang Dao, meaning “City of the Stars,” is a sleepy town located some 80 km north of Chiang Mai. Its attractions lie not in the town itself, but in the stunning countryside around it––the looming limestone mountain of Doi Luang Chiang Dao and its astonishing biodiversity, its caves, its hilltribe villages and, nowadays, some splendid resorts where you can while away the weekend.

In recent years, Chiang Dao has become a weekend oasis for Chiang Mai residents seeking a relaxing natural environment with fresh and fragrant air. Alternatively, many visitors plan for a stimulating trip with healthy hikes, elephant camps, adventure sports such as whitewater rafting and other outdoor pursuits.

Beneath the surface of the lush bamboo forests and bougainvillea lies some rather dark roots. About 100 years ago, people in Chiang Mai who were suspected of being possessed by spirits were often banished to Chiang Dao. Western missionaries and historians have alleged that many of these poor folk were simply delirious from malaria and other diseases, but were, nonetheless, exiled from their communities.

With a reputation for so many phi pob or possessing ghosts, the settlement was avoided by travelers and for many years the “crazies” were left to tend to themselves.

Today, many folk still regard Chiang Dao as having a mysterious aura, and visitors may be privy to an old campfire ghost story told by one of the elders of the town, usually after a few glasses of local whiskey.

Also dark and mysterious is the town’s number one attraction: Chiang Dao Cave, a natural labyrinth of stalagmites and stalactites that burrows nearly 2 km into the mountainside. The cave has been used by ascetic Buddhist monks over the years as a meditation retreat and is nowadays open to visitors as a kind of treasure trail of Buddhist shrines and figurines. It costs just 20 baht to enter, with another 100 baht for a guide and an oil lantern. At the entrance to the cave is a delightful fish pond and a small market that specializes in herbal cures.

The cave tunnels into the 2,225-meter peak of Doi Luang Chiang Dao, which looms imperiously over the surrounding countryside. The mountain has been conserved as a wildlife sanctuary since 1978, many experts believing that the astonishing variety of species of flora and birds that have made habitats of its slopes can be attributed to the water-born limestone origins of the mountain. Entry to the sanctuary is restricted at certain times of year, but your hotel should be able to tell you if the area is open to the public at the time of your visit. A day trip to the sanctuary is best combined with a visit to Pakkia, an ethnic Hmong village at the foot of the mountain.

For the more energetic––and most definitely for botanists––a trek to the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao is one of northern Thailand’s “must-dos.”

Looming limestone mountain

From the forestry station, which is some 15 km from Chiang Dao, you should expect a good five-hour uphill hike, first through bamboo forest, then teak and cinnamon trees, pine forest and finally through evergreens to the bare summit.

Most hikers book through an agent (or Stuart, the owner of Chiang Dao Nest) who will arrange a porter, camping equipment and tents for an overnight stay. The three almost equally-high summits of the massif form a horseshoe-shaped bowl that used to be a conveniently-hidden locus for opium-poppy fields. From the top of Thailand’s third highest peak, the view is spectacular, both at sunset and by sunrise. Campers should note that it can be surprisingly chilly at night though.

For those not so disposed to overnight hiking trips, perhaps a one-hour nature trail will suffice. You begin the trail behind the Buddhist statues outside Chiang Dao Cave, trudge uphill through the forest, then curl around the lower reaches of the mountain, resurfacing from the wild near the entrance to Chiang Dao Nest and Malee’s resorts.

Five hundred meters farther up the road from the trail’s end, nestled into the lush hillside, is a charming temple, Wat Tham Pha Pong. It contains a statue and small museum commemorating Luang Bhu Sim Buddhacaro, a roaming forest monk who founded the monastery in 1967 and gave desanas (sermons) there until his death in 1992. The temple was built above a cave and sermons are still given regularly in the cavern. Meditation is also practised here and although there are no set meditation retreats or courses, no one will object to a quiet introspective foreigner joining in a session or two. To reach the pagoda above Wat Tham Pha Pong, you’ll have to march up a winding stairway of some 500 steps, but you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with a panoramic view of the jungle below.

Situated 10 km south of Chiang Dao (Km 56 on Highway 108) is Chiang Dao Elephant Training Center. Originally a teak-logging station, the elephant camp is located along the River Ping in a natural forest environment. Visitors can ride and feed the elephants, plus there is now a mahout training program. The center also offers bamboo rafting and visits to a nearby Lisu hilltribe village.

And finally, no trip to Chiang Dao is complete without dining at the renowned Chiang Dao Nest. It offers heartwarming, and stomach-satisfying, Western breakfasts and French cuisine evening meals—pâté, cheeses, racks of lamb, smoked salmon, Chateaubriand steaks and soufflés. The chef at The Nest also bakes fresh bread, serves strong coffee and offers a small selection of wines. In fact, the Nest is an incredible discovery, especially considering its location in the middle of the forest.

En route: For those making their way to Chiang Dao by bicycle or car, there are some lovely stops along the way. Around halfway between Chiang Mai and Chiang Dao on Highway 108 is the town of Mae Taeng. You can stock up on provisions at the ample Mae Tamman market where you’ll usually see lots of hilltribe women shopping and selling produce. They’re noticeable by their colorful traditional costumes. The most common hilltribes in this area are the Lahu, the Karen and the Lisu.

Just beyond Mae Taeng heading north there is a turnoff to the right to Mae Ngat Dam and Sri Lanna National Park. In recent years, several houseboats or floating restaurants have opened on the dam where you can easily spend a lazy afternoon swimming, fishing and sunbathing on the bamboo decks of a houseboat. Drive to the national park entrance. There is a parking lot just inside by the edge of the lake. From there, long-tail boats will ferry you to a houseboat for about 300 baht. Many of the houseboats offer rustic overnight accommodation.

Also in the vicinity of Sri Lanna National Park is Wat Banden, a sparkling complex of Buddhist temples that is well worth an hour’s exploration. It is situated halfway between the turnoff on Highway 108 and the entrance to Sri Lanna National Park.

A popular adventure sport near Mae Taeng is whitewater rafting. The Mae Taeng River has class 3 and class 4 rapids, so going with a professional whitewater team is essential. You’ll have to set aside at full day for this activity, because the starting point on the river is a two-hour 4-wheel drive trip upstream. Physically exhausting and emotionally exciting, whitewater rafting on the Mae Taeng should be a heart-stopping, adrenalin-pumping day of fun. But non-swimmers and kids under 12 are not allowed to take part for safety reasons.

Getting to Chiang Dao from Chiang Mai:

From Chang Phuak Bus Station, there are daily buses every half hour. The journey takes 90 minutes and costs 40 baht. However, with so many attractions en route and around Chiang Dao, many visitors rent a car or a motorbike. But, if you can manage a five-to-six hour thigh-pumping cycle, mountain bikes are the way to go. All Chiang Mai bike rental stores will advise you on routes and trails.

Where to Stay:

Chiang Dao Nest 1

Western cuisine, comfortable chalets, swimming pool, Wi-Fi, kids’ area. 600-900 baht per night.

Chiang Dao Nest 2

Thai cuisine, comfortable chalets, quiet ambiance. 600-900 baht per night.

Malee’s Nature Lovers’ Bungalows

Younger crowd, more rustic. From 300 baht per night.

Activities

TK Houseboat: 200 baht per person per night. Call Tom: 086-185-3191. Also offers organic farm for “Woofers” and volunteers. www.thailand-ecotourism.com

Siam Rivers Whitewater Rafting: American-run outfit with excellent safety standards. Cost: 1,800 baht per person. Tel: 081-473-6839/ 089-515-1917 www.siamrivers.com

Chiang Dao Elephant Training Center: Tel: 053-298-553/ 053-862-037 www.chiangdaoelephantcamp.com

Mountain Bike Rental: Jacky Bikes. Nimmanhaemin Soi 15, Chiang Mai. Tel: 053-225-278.

Text : COLIN HINSHELWOOD
Images : SP.