Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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THE MYSTERIOUS
WHITE CHEDI

Text : Graeme Monaghan
Photos: Apirak/ Monaghan

Ancient and modern

Like most long time residents of Chiang Mai I have driven past the well-known White Chedi many times. It is situated in the middle of the road on the Ping River just down from the Nakhorn Ping Bridge and not far from the American Embassy. It also serves as an effective traffic roundabout.

At certain times it may be enlaced in fairy lights that make it look very attractive and, perhaps, even a little more mysterious. Unlike other chedis in this part of Thailand it is white (of course) and does not appear to have been part of a temple at any time. It simply stands like some giant policeman directing traffic around itself.

As with so many things we see on an almost daily basis, we don't give a lot of thought to it. Simply stated; it is just 'there' and always has been, so it doesn't really register in the conscious mind.

Though no one really knows its actual function, or reason for being, there have long been odd rumours about the origin of this landmark. The most common one, I have heard, concerns the drowning of a Thai man in a contest with a Burmese to see who could stay under the water longest. It seem that the Thai won by, not only staying under

the water the longest, but drowning himself in the process and for some obscure reason the chedi was raised in his honour.

It has even been suggested that the man tied himself, somehow or other, to the river bottom to ensure
success. And his death as well.

White Chedi ‘fairy lit’

At least, that's how the story goes and we have to wonder is it fact or merely a fictitious explanation?

Then, one day, I noticed there was a plaque quite near and, as my curiosity was somewhat aroused, I parked my motorbike to investigate. The plaque (though a little difficult to read) tells us that it is called Chedi Kiu, a Burmese name that is believed to originate either from the Pali word for `light marker' or the Thai word meaning `narrow or constricted', which may indicate it was on a narrow section of land. Obviously, neither of those accounts is applicable today.

Another explanation given is that it may have been used as a marker for barges who were plying their trade by river; perhaps it was a form of lighthouse for barges that may have arrived after dark.

The plaque even suggests that it may have been used in ancient city planning although I can't imagine how. Still, as no one seems to know how long the chedi has been there, the geography of Chiang Mai may well have been vastly different at the time the edifice was built. For example; the great flood of 700 years ago submerged the city of Wiang Kum Kam and caused the River Ping to change course. So these things happen.

Now we get to the interesting part because the plaque goes on to tell us that it may also have been used as a place for `trial by water'.

This becomes a little more interesting as `trial by water' was a very popular method of determining guilt or innocence in Europe, and elsewhere no doubt, in the Middle Ages and probably beyond. This simple process meant that anyone accused of a crime (frequently witchcraft) was tied to a chair and immersed in the river for a certain period of time. Apparently these were particularly joyous occasions and families would bring their kids, and a picnic lunch, along to witness `this week's dunking' or possibly `dunkings'. It doesn't take much imagination to realise that this was not especially `joyous' for the dunkee.

On the ‘ducking stool’

You see, anyone lucky enough to be still alive after their compulsory underwater swim was deemed `innocent' and allowed to go home. If not; weeell, it didn't really matter anyway. Problem solved.

Now we find, according to the plaque, that a Norwegian man named Hans Bock actually witnessed such an event on this spot in 1882 so great credence is given to that explanation of the event resulting in the man's death and subsequent erection of the chedi.

Therefore, it would appear that was the answer to the mystery and I was quite satisfied with that. Until…….I recently read a book about the British when they ruled Malaya in the 19^th and early 20^th Centuries.

What they witnessed on a number of occasions was the settlement of family or tribal disputes in a similar fashion. This entailed one member from each family, or tribe, diving into the river and staying underwater as long as possible. Obviously, the one who stayed under the longest was declared the `winner', the dispute was settled and everyone went home happy.

This, to me at any rate, seems a much more logical answer as to what may have happened at the site of the Mysterious White Chedi all those years ago; especially in the light of the commonly told story of the contest between the two Thai and Burmese men. It also tends to give credence to the suggestion that the man tied himself to the bottom as the honour of his family, tribe, or even country may have been at stake. It must be remembered that the Burmese controlled Chiang Mai for considerable periods of time over the years so it may well have been a Thai/Burmese contest. This also strengthens the theory as to the honour bestowed upon the winner.

The truth, of course, will never be known.

So, next time you drive by the famous landmark, spare a thought for the poor guy who almost certainly gave his life to settle an argument, or even an international dispute, and whose name has been long forgotten.