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A Trip to Nan:
In Nature's Embrace

When people think about the low-profile Nan Province, they tend to think of a former Communist base in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by daunting mountains. Quiet and tranquil the province surely is, but its infinite valleys with their marvelous scenery, is home to racially mixed tribes, rare plants, black ivory, and religious worship.

Getting to Nan from Chiang Mai is easy. Several buses leave Chiang Mai Bus Station every hour for the six-hour trip. Another option is the train to Denchai District (Phare Province) where you can catch a bus to Nan that will take about a half-hour. Once there, my recommendation is to hire a motorcycle or car that will get you to the desirable places to visit. The interesting spots are spread out. Driving carefully is vital because the roads are mainly mountain lanes.

As in every part of Thailand, Nan offers the visitor several interesting temples. Their most intriguing aspect is often not their architectural style but their mirroring of cultural beliefs. Nan's temples are no exception. Wat Phumin has four magnificent Buddhas, their backs to one another and facing the four directions. There are also highly valuable wall paintings in the Thai Lue style displaying legends about the Buddha, as well as local myths showing the area's lifestyle, native attire, and trading relations with the surrounding countries.

Located in the center of Nan City, Wat Chang Kham Wora Vihara, the only temple under royal patronage in the province, was built by Phraya Kheng in 1547. Its high point is the series of elephant sculptures supporting the pagoda base. Opposite is Nan National Museum, its exhibition of a black ivory tusk being its main drawing card. The famous piece weighs approximately 18 kilograms and is 94 centimeters in length, in a curved shape. The museum also has displays on the indigenous peoples of the North, including several minorities living in Nan. The building itself, combining old and modern construction and techniques, rewards careful viewing. Built in 1903, it was the residence of Nan's rulers.

Featuring a 55-meter high gilt chedi containing a holy relic from Sukhothai, Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, is a highlight of a trip to Nan. It takes about five minutes to reach it on Highway 1168. The shimmering pagoda stands tall and dignified, and Nan's people are proud to have it represent the province. A reclining Buddha in the hall next to the main one is remarkable. Even though the image lacks detail its size, style, and setting provide it with an aura of power. Nearby the temple is a campus of Sukhothai Thamathiraj Open University where you can get into conversation with students and ask advice about traveling in Nan.

Pua District is the home of Lan Changs (Laotians). There is no organized cultural sightseeing of this indigenous people but you can get some impression of their lifestyles from their costumes and accessories. Pua District's Wat Prang features the ‘ticklish tree’ known from many Thai television shows. It actually moves when tickled. You will see traces of pinching, scratching, and abrasion on every branch. This phenomenon remains unexplained, a true mystery for the curious.

Doi Phuka National Park is simply a "must go" place. One of Thailand's newest national parks it is located to the north of Nan on Highway 1080 in Nong Bua District. With limestone mountain ranges, 1,900 meters above sea level, and a home to several streams merging into the Nan River it sports endless mountain views. The surrounding scenery is truly spectacular. For those who love to touch the clouds, coming here will fulfill dreams especially in the morning when you wake up with mist all over you. The Chomphu Phukha (Bretschneider ninensis herms), a nearly extinction flower, can be seen only here, its gorgeous pink and fragile petals on display in February and March. The area's waterfalls invite you to settle down for a quiet picnic lunch.

An interesting nearby district worth visiting is Bo Klua (salt pond), 9 kilometers from Doi Phu Kha National Park. Salt is made by boiling water in steel pans on a wood-burning stove until the salt emerges. Salt-making takes place only in the dry season since rain dilutes the salt water. This salt mine belongs to the community, and anyone who lives there can use it. Travelers are welcome to explore it.

The best time to visit Nan is from November to April when the weather is quite pleasant. It might become a bit chilly in the cold season but, generally, a light sweater suffices against a cold breeze. Nan is not a province that people pass through to get to somewhere else, like Lumphun or Chiang Mai. The few tourists who do make the trip deliberately set out because of the pristine charms of the place. In Nan, nature still flourishes, the weather is appealing, and the people are friendly. What more could one want?

(Text & images c 2005 Aj. Chatwood Wangwon) The writer is a Lecturer in the Communication Department, Maejo University, Chiang Mai. He can be reached at realnoi@yahoo.com.